Our web site and specifically this page has helped many people save money.  Some have asked about making a contribution to show their appreciation and support the effort, almost like shareware software.  If you want to contribute, click where you see the word Contribute after each section.  We like helping and the feedback we get shows we're on the right track. 

Email: Paul@A-1ElectricCo.com

• Air Conditioning, can't stand the heat?

• Air conditioning systems in attics or finished basements  - protect your house from possible water problems.

• Aluminum wiring in homes, what's with that?

• Arc-fault Circuit Interrupters, preventing fires may be your fault.

• Attic fans, what do they do, what does it cost?

• Bathroom exhaust fans, no need to put on airs.

• Bulbs - Watts the big idea?

  • Compact fluorescent (CFL)

  • LED bulbs

  • Broken bulbs
    

• Cable Modem, DSL Say Hi to Speed.

• Carbon Monoxide detectors a loud response to a silent killer

• Ceiling fans, stay cool with your fans.

• Circuit breakers give us a break when we need it.

• Computer power, does your UPS really deliver?

• Computer Networking, be well connected.

• Code:  National Electric Code - background information.

• Dimmers another bright idea.

• Dryers - quick tips

• Electrical contractor's license,what's that all about?

• Electric utility company What are they responsible for on your house?

• Federal Pacific Stab-Lok panels  What's the problem?

• Fluorescent Lighting:  The long and the short of it.

• Generators  Don't be left in the dark.

• GFI outlets, they really press your buttons.

• Grounded outlets, the (third) (w)hole story.

• Heating systems, the cold facts.

• Holiday lighting, seasoned experience helps

• Home Inspections,  give it more than a once-over

• Hot Tubs, you're not always in hot water.

• Humidistats, wet, but not wild.

• Kitchens, what's cookin' there?

• Knob and Tube wiring, stay posted.

• Lightning strikes.  Get out the insurance forms.

• Motion sensors, get a move on security.

• Overloaded circuits, what causes it?

• Power problems: Check out: "Overloaded circuits", "Short circuits" and "GFI outlets"

• Radon fans: clean up your act.

• Reverse polarity, big deal or not?

• Recessed lights, what have they done for you lately?

• Roof fans, what do they do, what does it cost?

• Service changes / Service upgrades, the full story from top to bottom.

• Short circuits vs Overloaded circuits: what's the difference?

• Smoke Detectors  Got Life?  IMPORTANT  information about older smoke detectors.

• Sump pumps   dry is good

• Surge Protection,  How to protect yourself, what to do.

• Timers, are you ready for this?

• Water and electricity  don't mix, here's a solution

Air Conditioning: Central Air   or  Room Air conditioners or in attics or finished basements

Central air conditioning:
Your air conditioning system has 2 key components:

•     The air handler (or more simply the fan which pushes the air).  The air handler is usually part of a hot air heating system.  It's the fan which pushes the air through the ductwork of the house.  In the winter, the furnace heats air, in the summer, the compressor outside cools the air.  In some homes, especially those without central hot air heat, there may be a separate air handler located in the attic of the home.

•     The compressor, located outside the house.  This unit compresses the freon which, when allowed to expand, becomes cold.  By passing the freon through a 'radiator' in the air handler, it makes the air cold.  By the way, when the air becomes cold, moisture in the air condenses and is drained out with a pipe to a drain, or pumped to a drain via a condensate pump.

Helpful Hint:  HELP, MY AIR CONDITIONING DOESN'T WORK AND I CAN'T GET COOL!
     

Room Air Conditioners
Typically, you can only have 1 unit on a circuit.  If it doesn't work, check the outlet with a lamp.  If there's no power, check the circuit breakers.

A/C systems in attics and finished basements 

A normal part of the a/c systems is condensation on the cooling coils.  This water (condensate) is collected and drained away.... and usually works fine.  But sometimes the drain line gets clogged, or the condensate pump (no always needed) stops working.  You want to know when there's a problem, and if the unit is in an attic or finished basement, you want the system to stop before it causes damage to the sheetrock, carpets, etc.   We can install safety shut-off switches for the condensate drain pipe and a float shut-off switch for the overflow basin. (These devices shut-off the a/c unit if water backs up in the drain line (if plugged by debris or mice debris) or the coils freeze (and thaw) from an a/c malfunction.) You want the system to stop, even if you're not home, before water causes damage.

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Aluminum wiring

Electrical wires are composed of either copper or aluminum conductors. Copper costs more and is heavier and less flexible.
Aluminum wire requires special anti-oxidant compounds at connection points. Most common house wiring uses copper. Between
1970 and 1973 or so, a small percentage of  houses were wired with aluminum wire throughout the house. There are 2 issues with aluminum wiring:

• Its conductivity changes when it oxidizes (rusts). This affects how well it carries electricity. If it resists conducting current too much, it will start to overheat.

• It expands and contracts more when it heats and cools. This can cause connections to become loose and the problem gets worse.

For these reasons, aluminum wires are only to be connected to outlets and switches, etc. that have been tested, rated and marked "For
Aluminum Wire".  Most switches and outlets are tested, rated and marked "For Copper Wire Only".

It should be noted that both copper and aluminum wiring could have loose connections that cause problems. We get calls to solve
power problems for both copper and aluminum wired homes..

Helpful Hint:  If a house has aluminum wiring, there are 5 options:

1. Do nothing. There are many houses with aluminum wire that have not experienced any problems. Knowing that your house has aluminum wires is no reason to panic but you should be alert to symptoms that may indicate problems: warm outlets or switches, flickering lights, etc..

2. Purple-wirenut pig-tailing - no longer recommended.  This means redoing all connections of aluminum wires with a copper tail that is then used to connect to the normal outlets and switches.  In the past, a special designed purple wire nut was used but there have been issues reported with the connections.

3. Pressure-crimp terminations. This is only available from a limited number of certified contractors who have have been trained with the process by the  manufacture.  This is also uses the special anti-oxidant compound but with a special tool to squeeze the connections.

4. Set-screw pressure-crimp terminations.  Using special (expensive) set-screw connectors, copper wires are pigtailed to the aluminum wires and normal outlets and switches are installed.   We can do this type of installation for $60 per outlet, switch, light, etc. 

5. Replace all aluminum wires with copper wires.  The cost would vary depending on the house but roughly, expect a ranch house to be around $15,000 and a 2-story colonial to be around $25,000.   A split level would probably be in between.  Depending on basement and attic access, some holes and patching might be necessary.

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Arc-fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCI)

Arc-fault circuit interrupters are based on newer technology.  (These are not GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters.  Click here for information on GFCIs.)  The purpose of AFCIs is to to detect a small spark that could cause a fire and shut off the breaker.  The spark could be due to a break in a wire,  a short circuit, bad connections, etc.  The problem is that when you flip a switch or plug in or unplug an appliance that is turned on, you get a small spark.  No one wants to have to constantly be resetting breakers in normal daily living.  The design has been improving so that these very sensitive devices do not cause nuisance trips; time will tell.
Here's a link for more technical data from the US Fire Administration web site.

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Attic Roof Fans

Click here if your attic roof fan no longer works.

First, some definitions:

• Attic Roof fan:  Installed in the roof itself.  From the outside, it looks something like a mushroom.  Operates with an automatic thermostat.  It pulls outside air in through the gable vents, and any soffit vents or passive vents if they exist. 
  

• Gable fan: Fan installed inside the attic against a gable vent at the side of the attic and operates with a thermostat.  Since you can only pull air through one vent, it isn't as big or able to do as much as a roof fan..

• Whole house fan:  Large fan (48" in diameter) which pulls air through the house via open windows.  This has large louvers (48" x 48") in the ceiling of a hallway on the upper floor.  Operated with a switch.   These can't be used when you are using air conditioning.
  

From mid-spring until early fall, the sun beats down on the roof top and heats up the attic space.  It can get up to 130° F.  If this hot air is not cleared out, it will slowly saturate the beams, insulation, ceilings and walls. The large mass of hot air and the heated wood, insulation and sheet rock slowly transfers this heat to the top floor (or main floor of a ranch style house).  This is why the outside can be cooling off in the afternoon/evening but the house is still getting hotter and hotter inside.

The solution is to get rid of this high volume of hot air.  With a typical thermostat setting of 110° F, the roof fan turns on, pulls out the hot air out, replacing it with cooler air being pulled in through the vents.  A roof fan can pull air through the 2 gable vents and/or soffit vents on the roof overhang.  Even if it's 90° outside, that's a lot cooler than the 130° attic air.

Click here to see some photos of an attic roof fan installation.

Helpful hints:

• A roof fan can only pull hot air out if there are vents to allow cooler air to be pulled in to replace it.  Proper ventilation is important.

• A gable fan is usually much smaller since it can only pull from the one other vent.  It can only move 1/2 the amount air.
  

• You want a high quality roof fan.  It will work hard, in hot temperatures and needs to be big enough to do the job.

  • There are some cheap roof fans that only last a few years.

  • A metal dome holds up better to weather, wind and ulta-violet rays far better than a plastic dome.

  • It can cost as much to replace a fan as to install one brand new.

  • Each year, we replace many other fan brands.  Some fans and models have longer warranties than others.

  • Larger homes with large volume attics (steep roofs) should have a larger roof fan.

• Occasionally, a house can't use a roof fan.  Usually this is in expanded Cape Cod or certain contemporary homes where there is no significant attic air space to vent out.

If your attic fan has stopped working, it's either the motor or the thermostat; we can't know until we see it.  However, we can give an estimate for the following scenarios:

1. Bad thermostat:   $195 to replace + tax
   

2. Bad motor: if a replacement motor is available, $355 + tax to replace 
   

3. Bad unit (motor, brackets, etc)  Replace the entire unit with a new fan with automatic thermostat and master Off-switch: $635 - $775 depending on the size of the fan.
   

Note:  Replacements are taxable repairs, new installations are capital improvements which are not taxable.

Type of attic/house	Price	Flow Capacity	Attic square footage
Regular attic of older homes  (pre-1985)	$635.00	1250 CFM	1400-1800 Square. Feet
Large, high volutme attics of newer homes with steep roofs	$825.00	1530 CFM	up to  2200 Square Feet

Give us a call or send an email so we can get things back working as soon as possible.

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Bathroom Exhaust fans

These fans can be very effective.  To rid a bathroom of unwanted humidity, heat or odors, it's important to consider some important points:

• A fan can only remove air if there is replacement air coming from elsewhere.  If the room is sealed, true ventilation cannot occur.

• To be effective, you need to select a fan that can move enough air to clear the room.  Smaller bathrooms can use smaller fans, larger rooms need larger fans.

• If humidity is a problem and you take long, hot showers, or you use a jacuzzi a lot, you should have a more powerful fan.

• Some fans make are noisy.  How do you know which to use?  Fortunately, fans are rated with Sones, a measurement of (perceived) sound.  A fan with 2.0 sones is twice as loud as a fan with 1.0 sone.  It can make a difference.

• The fan must vent to the outside.  The warm and usually humid air can affect the structure and insulation otherwise.

It's important to use the right fan and install it properly.   We have several options, but we usually recommend larger, quieter fans.  In some cases, we will do a fan with more than one 'port' in the room to ventilate the area well.
If you have an old fan that's not working well.  We can sometimes get replacement parts, or we will replace the entire unit.  There's always a solution.

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Bulbs and Broken bulbs

Bulbs come in different sizes, shapes, colors, brightness and longevity.  Some bulbs are interchangeable, some are not.  Here's how to make some bright decisions:

• Buy name brand bulbs.  Off-brand bulbs may have the same wattage (watts say how much electricity it uses) but will not be the same brightness.  We've solved more than one lighting problem by simply having the customer use good bulbs.  Examples:  GE, Philips, Sylvania, Westinghouse.

• If you change a burned out bulb and it still doesn't work, try a bulb from a working fixture.  If it doesn't work, be sure the bulb works when you put it back in the fixture you got it from.  Brand new bulbs don't always work, sometimes moving a bulb from one place to another causes the filament to break.

• Fluorescent bulbs have their own considerations.  Check that section below or click here.

• "A" bulbs are standard bulbs used in most lamps and fixtures.  The radiate the light in all directions like the sun.

• "R" bulbs focus the bulb with a Reflector.   "R" bulbs direct the light toward a specific area  Used in recessed lights, etc., they give much more light than standard bulbs (A-bulbs).
  

• "PAR" bulbs are used in outdoor floodlights.  They have a built-in Parabolic reflector to direct the light towards an area.
  

• If you have trouble removing a bulb, try rocking the bulb gently back and forth, and side to side, as you turn it.  It may be slightly crooked.

• Fixtures and recessed lights have specifications for the maximum wattage.  They don't want it to get too hot inside the fixture.  The rating is for each bulb (each socket).

• Dimmers for lights let you control the bulbs' intensity.  Dimmers have rated capacities, usually 600 watts.  (You add up the wattage of all the bulbs controlled by the dimmer.)  Special dimmers can handler 1000 watts and 1500 watts.  If dimmers are put side by side, they must be derated so they don't overheat: 600 watts down to 525 watts, or sometimes 450 watts.  It's normal for the dimmer to get warm while in use.  (2% of the electricity is lost to heat in dimmers)  Go to this link for more information from Lutron.

CFL (compact fluorescent bulbs)

These bulbs are basically fluorescent bulbs folded into a small size with a built-in ballast.  They use less energy and last longer.  A 13 watt CFL can give the light of a 60 watt regular incandescent bulb.  If you have a dimmer for the lights, be sure the CFL bulbs are labeled "Dimmable", otherwise they will flicker.  

Not only are CFLs available in different wattages and shapes, including candelabra, there are also different colors available.  Cool white is good for task lighting, but warm white is nicer in a lamp, etc.  They even make one as a black light!

LED (Light emitting diodes)

These screw-in bulbs are getting better and less expensive.  The LED bulbs may last 50,000 hours instead of 1500-2000 hours for an incandescent but they are  still quite expensive.  You can spend from $35-$125 per bulb.  There are many factors: wattage, dimmable or not, color output and more.  As of Jan. 2010, I don't think they are cheap enough to be viable unless a light is always on, or it's difficult to replace the bulb.   Click here for more detailed information.

Broken bulbs, how to remove them:

• You could try a trick we use (as long as the light socket is not damaged), the goal is to grip the bulb socket from inside it's own base.  First, be sure the switch is off!   If the bulb is completely broken off at the base, with the lights off, use needle nose pliers--> in opposition. By that I mean that you put the tips in the broken bulb socket and pull the handles apart enough so the tips grip against the inside of the bulb socket, then turn to loosen the bulb.  It usually works well.   (If the entire light socket has been damaged from other attempts, we would probably have to replaced the socket.)

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• CO detectors are one of the simplest do-it-yourself things you can do to protect you and your family.  You can install plug-in or battery-operated sensors.   There are a variety of choices: simple alarm, digital readouts, voice alerts and more.   A big question:  Did you know that they lose sensitivity over time and that you should replace them every 5-7 years?  Click here to read what a major manufacturer says.  And read up about the importance of smoke detector replacement by clicking here.
  

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Ceiling Fans

Fans are a popular and efficient way to cool a room.  We can add a fan in virtually any location.  Some points to consider:

• Don't scrimp on the cost of the fan.  Poor fans are noisy and tend to wobble more.  And the last place you want to hear a hum or click is when you're trying to sleep or read.  It costs just as much to install a $300 fan as it does to install a $30 fan.  And if the fan is defective, it will cost more to reinstall the replacement fan.

• Fans can be controlled in different ways.  

  • Basic fans come with pull-chain switches on the fan.  A nice convenience is separate wall switches to control the light and fan.  A dimmer is nice for the light, and a fan speed control for the fan.   

  • Some fans come with a wired wall control that uses electronics to control (and allaow dimming) the light, and control the fan speed.  These cost more but can save on installation costs.

  • Now, wireless remote controls are available, either built-in or as an add-on.  The  fans still need a master off switch somewhere for servicing the fan or if the remote stops functioning.   

• Based on our experience, we recommend Casablanca, Hampton Bay, Emerson and Panasonic.  We recommend the Hampton Bay Huntington III fan for its value.  It comes standard with a light kit, but the light does not have to be installed.  We advise against the Hampton Bay Windward II.  Over time, fan models and quality changes.  We used to advise against the Hunter fans but then they got better.

• If you have a high ceiling and are not sure what size downrod to get, buy several lengths.  We can hold the fan at the different heights and use the appropriate downrod.  Then, you can return the unopened ones.

• Lights on fans.  If you're getting a fan with lights, don't forget the importance of the quantity and type of bulbs.  Look at the style and total wattage of the lights.  Some fans allow fluorescent, but they may not be dimmable.  Some have the bulbs in a glass shield, some are a metal shield.  The metal ones reduce the spread of light. 
  

We have a few pictures of a particularly challenging fan installation (all wood paneling without any access above or below).  Click here.

Helpful Hints:
If your fan is not working:

1. Is there power to other items in the room, wall outlets, lights?

2. Is there a wall switch that is turned off?

3. If there are pull-chains, try pulling each one once.  Perhaps the setting was changed.

4. Check the reversing switch (most fans) to be sure it didn't get bumped into a middle position which is neither "Summer" nor "Winter".

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Circuit Breakers

Most homes today have circuit breakers in their main electrical panel.  You may also have a sub-panel located near the main panel, or elsewhere in the house.  Circuit breakers are designed to trip when there is too much electricity flowing on the wires.  If you overload the wires, they overheat and can melt causing a fire hazard. 

Helpful Hint: If you have power out in part of the house, it may be a wiring problem without tripping a breaker.  If so, you need an electrician.  If you have a tripped breaker, read on.

There are 3 reasons for a tripping circuit breaker:

1. Overloaded circuit and wires - inconvenient and possible hazard

2. Short circuit - a hazard needs to be found and fixed

3. Defective breaker - easier to fix, but rarely happens.

Overloading:

Occasionally, a breaker will trip from a simple overload and merely needs to be reset.  The question is: Which breaker is it?  Some breakers will look a little different when they trip from an overload.  If you know which breaker it is, try resetting it.

Helpful Hint:  Most circuit breakers need to be clicked 'Off' and then back 'On' when they trip. If you don't first click it 'Off', you will not be resetting it.  Also, read the Safety note and Helpful Hint further down in this section.

Overloading the wires is often caused by using more appliances than the wire can handle.  If you have a 15 amp breaker (for a 15 amp wire), it will trip if you are trying to use 20 amps at the same time.  You can't simply change the 15 amp breaker to a 20 amp breaker since it is connected to a 15 amp wire.  The analogy would be using a water pipe designed for 15 pounds of pressure and deciding to use 20 pounds of pressure instead - not a good idea.

How do you know how much electricity you're using?   A 1800 watt hair dryer uses 15 amps (Watts=Volts x Amps) 1800 watts ---- divided by 120 volts---- equals 15 amps). 

Here's a simple chart.  Of course, your appliance may vary.

Short circuit

If power goes out and the breaker cannot reset, you have an electrical problem that needs to be found and corrected.

Safety Note:  If a short circuit is the cause of the tripped breaker, you will probably hear a buzz and/or see a the light flicker when you turn the breaker on, and the the breaker will turn off again.  DO NOT RESET the breaker again.  It's time to call us to find the problem and fix it.

Helpful Hint:  If you don't know which breaker it is, you can go through all the circuit breakers one by one (except the main breaker).  Click each breaker 'Off' and then back 'On'.
Why not reset the main breaker?  The main breaker has probably not been moved in many years.  At best, it will be very stiff and hard to move, at worst, it may not turn back on again and you will be completely without power.  (We get this kind of call on a Sunday afternoon from the do-it-yourselfer.)  If you think you need to shut-off the main breaker, you probably don't know enough working electricity and should instead call a professional.

Defective breaker

Sometimes the problem is simply a bad breaker, perhaps less than 2% of the time.  On power problem calls, we check that right away to be sure it's not a simply issue.  Then we go on to locating the short circuit.

Helpful Hint:  If the above hints do not solve your problem, read up on GFI outlets (and GFI breakers) in this section.

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Computer Power
Occassionally, we get a call about a potential  power problem involving  a computer that keep shutting off, even though it has a UPS (Uninterupptable Power Supply).  The UPS converts its backup battery power to 120 volts when the power goes out.  A simple, normal voltage drop in the house will trigger the UPS to try to run off the battery.  If the battery or UPS unit is bad, you end up with a computer shut-down.  It's normal for a brief voltage drop to occur when a refrigerator or an air conditioner starts.

Helpful Hint:  Test your UPS unit by unplugging it from the wall outlet and see how long the system works.  No UPS is better than a defective UPS.

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Computer Networking
Sharing files, printers and internet access (e.g. Broadband: Cable Modem or DSL)

As more people use more computers at home and at work, they want to be able to use files, printers, internet access, etc. from more than one computer.  The answer is interconnecting the computers with network wiring.  You can share as much or as little as you want.  Perhaps you just want to use the other computer's printer, or use the files when you're using a laptop.  More common now is the request to share internet access.  Since Broadband (Cable Modem or DSL) can cost $40-$50 a month, per modem, if you have more than one computer, you want to avoid having more than 1 monthly fee.  By the way, you don't have to leave one computer on for the other computer use the cable/DSL modem.
Some people opt to use wireless networking.  There are issues to be understood before going that route:
Security - the modems have to be configured to prevent outsiders from getting access to your network, or your passwords, credit card info, etc.  The default settings do not provide security.
Reliability - the wireless networks have evolved to different frequencies: 900 MHz, 2 GHz, 5 GHz.  These same frequencies are used for your cordless telephones.  When you use the phones, they can disrupt the networks.  Even microwave ovens can interfere with the network functions.  We have customers who tried wireless, but switched to hardwire due to these issues.
Distance/speed - some installations just don't provide the speed you need due to the distances between the network points.

For going with a hardwired computer network, here's the typical recipe:

1. Start with (1) Internet access with either a cable or DSL modem.  ($40-$50 per month)

2. Add (1) router to control/manage access among the computers. (Purchase for about $100)

3. Add network cabling (also called CAT 5 or category 5 cabling) to link the computers together at the router.  The cost of the wiring depends on the location of the computers and the access for running the wires.  For 2 computers, the cost is usually $300 -$400.  Connecting additional computers would cost about $250 each.  The cost varies based on the access for running the wires and whether they are on different floors.
   

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What is "The Code"?

The National Electric Code (NEC) was initiated back in 1897. Over the years, the National Fire Protection Association has sponsored the NEC to ensure the "practical safeguarding of persons and property from the hazards arising from the use of electricity." The NEC is revised every 3 years; some changes are minor in scope, some are quite extensive. In order for licensed electricians to stay 'current', we are required to take a 24 hours of continuing education course for each code cycle. 9 hours are spent on code revisions and 1 hour on the law and regulations for electrical contractors. The remaining 24 are for technical and other subjects.

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Dimmers
Dimmers are a simple and nice update to a home.  They allow you to adjust the lighting to fit the situaion.
Dimming the lights does make them last longer and you use less electricity.  But you do loose a little efficiency (2%) at the outset.  A fixture without a dimmer is slightly brighter than a fixture with a dimmer at full On. 
Dimmers have rated capacities, usually 600 watts.  (You add up the wattage of all the bulbs controlled by the dimmer.)  Special dimmers can handler 1000 watts and 1500 watts.  If dimmers are put side by side, they must be derated so they don't overheat: 600 watts down to 525 watts, or sometimes 450 watts. 
It's normal for the dimmer to get warm while in use.  (2% of the electricity is lost to heat in dimmers)  Go to this link for more information from Lutron.

Helpful Hint:  A dimmer that is warm is normal but they should not get so hot that you get burned when you touch it.  A metal switch plate dissipates the heat evenly, a plastic plate's metal screws will get extra hot as they conduct the heat away.

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Dryers
Dryers usually do their job without fuss.  What can you do to be safer?  Be sure you clean your lint trap every load, and check/clean your dryer vent both inside the house and out.  At the outside of the house, lint often clogs the louvers, reducing air flow and adding to the time it takes to do a load.  You can even vacuum out the outer piece.   Also, although awkward, it wouldn't hurt to disconnect the dryer duct at the back of the unit and clean it as well.

Helpful Hint:  Here's a checklist/chart:

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What is the Electrical License?

The New Jersey Board of Examiners of Electrical Contractors issues electrical licenses to qualified individuals who have passed a state exam. To take the exam, a combination of work experience and education is required. The license must be renewed every 3 years along with the business permit to operate. It is illegal to do electrical contracting without a license and business permit. There are some exceptions, including work under 10 volts, work on an individual house by the homeowner or immediate family. The Board of Examiners can reprimand and fine people and businesses for violating the rules and regulations.

A-1 Electric Co., Inc.  is licensed by the state to perform electrical work and repairs. We must qualify for renewal every 3 years. To file an electrical permit for work on someone's home or office, you must be a licensed electrical contractor. Among the few exceptions, homeowners can file a permit to work on their own homes if they are the only residents. For example, if you own and live in a family house, you cannot do electrical work since it could endanger the other family.

A license does not guaranteed results.  You need to evaluate any contractor for reliability and competence.  If you don't understand something, you should ask.  Even technical issues should be explained in a satisfactory way to you.

Helpful Hint:  You can check on the validity and status of a license holder for electricians and other trades licensed in New Jersey.  Call 24 hours a day: (973) 273-8090 .  You will be prompted for the occupation code (190 for electrical contractors), or you can select from their list.  Finally you provide the license number (8460A for A-1 Electric Co., Inc.)

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Electric Utility Vs Homeowner – Who Owns What?

If your outside wiring is deteriorated or a storm damages your home's exterior wiring, are you or the utility company responsible for repairs?

In general, the power company is responsible for the street wiring and the wiring up to where it attaches to your house.  Also, they own the (glass) electric meter.  The homeowner is responsible for the wiring as it comes down the side of the house (for most homes without underground service).

The following areas are the homeowner's responsibility:

• Service hook that holds the overhead wires secured to the house;

• Wiring from the connections (near the service hook) down to the meter box;

• Meter box (for PSE&G customers, they provide the meter box but not its installation);

• Wiring from the meter box to the circuit breaker panel or fuse box.

It should be noted that during repairs, additional work may be required to make your electrical system comply with National Electric Code requirements that have been updated over the years.

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Federal Pacific Stab-Lok Panels

A special note about the circuit breaker panel brand known as Federal Pacific or Stab-Lok

Many electricians and inspectors complain about this panel.  Some even say it is unsafe.  At one point we told customers that we hadn't seen any specific problems.  That changed one day when we saw two serious instances when we thought the breakers should have tripped and they didn't.  One case was significant in that I saw sparks come off the pole in the street but no breaker tripped.  From that day, our story has changed and we recommend that the panels be changed.  Due to age and corrosion of the main service wires and meter box, this may mean the entire service entrance wiring also has to be changed, see the Special Note below.   A service change is not a minor job so you may want to read more about this panel issue.  

This link takes you to a US Consumer Safety Commission notice in 1983 that says they didn't have the resources to determine whether they were safe as the new company owners claimed.  Basically, they didn't have the resources to check it out.

Click on http://www.inspect-ny.com/fpe/fpepanel.htm to read an articles that find the breakers to be a hazard.   It listsother resources available.   For more information on replacing your panel, go to Service Upgrades.

Special note:  If the panel is replaced, it probably means the main service cable on the side of the house, and the meter box should be replaced also.  Everything is probably over 30 years old, deteriorated and corroded.  In some cases, the original wires will not even reach the new terminals on the panel.

If you've been living in a house with this Federal Pacific Stab-Lok brand panel, you have a choice:

• Do nothing.  You've been living with it this long without it causing a problem, what's the big deal?  Have you ever had someone point out to you that you had been driving on bald tires?  Do you figure you've been fine so far so you don't have to worry?  How about seat belts?  As long as you don't have an accident, who needs them?  If you think you can't afford the safety now, perhaps you should budget for doing it in the future.  The issue probably will come up when you go to sell your home.  If it will cost you money when you sell, you might as well get the benefits from doing it now.

• Replace the panel and probably the outside wiring as well.  See our section on Service Upgrades.  Obviously, this is a safer decision that will cost money.

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Fluorescent Lights

These bulbs used to only come as long white tubes ranging from 1 foot up to 12 feet.  The new screw-in fluorescent bulbs to replace standard bulbs are becoming more and more useful.   Although older fluorescent fixtures only work above 50 F.degrees, they now make new energy efficient fluorescent fixtures with electronic ballasts that are brighter, turn on instantly and work in temperatures down to 20 F.  These are great for garage and basement lighting.

Long or circular fluorescent bulbs:

• The newer energy efficient fluorescent lights are recognizable by the thinner bulbs (T-8 (8/8ths = 1 in. diameter) vs T-12 (1-1/2 in. diameter).  These lights are brighter and whiter than the old bulbs, and use 20% less electricity.  Older fixtures can be updated with the new technology ballasts without replacing the fixture.

• Older fluorescent fixtures (before 1980) often had a "starter" that looked like a thumb-sized silver can.  These are rarely seen nowadays.  If you have this type, the starter can go bad and prevent the light from working.  A slight counter clockwise twist of the starter should allow it to be removed.  Be sure to replace with the same type as is marked on the starter.

• For most fixtures, the bulbs work in pairs, inner and outer pairs.  (This is not true for the T-8 bulbs mentioned above.)  If one bulb goes bad, it will prevent its partner from working.  It's a good idea to replace both bulbs at the same time.  Also be sure to insert the bulbs correctly.  It's easy to not get the pins into the socket correctly, it even happens to us.

• Ballasts transform the 120 volts of the house to 300-500 volts needed to work the fluorescent bulbs.  If the bulbs are good, and the sockets are fine, then it most likely is a bad ballast.  Call us to replace it.  (Screw-in fluorescent bulbs have a built-in ballast.)

• U-bent bulbs are found in 2x2 fixtures.  If they work intermittently, try new bulbs.  Don't get the bulbs with the metallic strip along the exterior or the bulb.  Although these bulbs normally work fine, if you're having occassional problems with a fixture, these bulbs may be the source.

• Generally, you can not use a dimmer with fluorescent bulbs.  However, I have seen some recent screw-in bulbs that can be on a dimmer.

Screw-in Compact Fluorescent (CFL) bulbs:

• These can be used in almost any regular screw-in bulb fixture.  They're save energy and last longer.  Great use of these bulbs are where it's difficult or inconvenient to replace bulbs.  Installed in post lights, you shouldn't need to worry about replacement for some time.

• There is sometimes a choice of the color of the light output: white, soft white, etc.

• An important note about the CFL bulbs: some are dimmable, some are not.  If you have a dimmer, the bulbs may flicker or make a noise.  The packaging and the bulb itself will say whether it is a dimmable bulb.
  

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Generators
If the power goes out, do you worry about your heat, sump pump, water and other needs?  A generator can provide power for your house when you need it.  Portable generators can help parts of a house with temporary extension cords, but the cords don't help with the furnace or well pumps.  Fully automatic generators can do part or all of a house.Virtually all generators have an electric start with a pull-cord back-up.  But you have to consider a few elements when deciding what you want:

1. What are the important items to run?  We find the vital circuits are for  sump pumps, well pumps, furnaces, refrigerators, lights. (Click here to download a helpful list/calculator.)

2. Manual or Automatic?  

• Portable, manual generators are simpler and less expensive.  They typically have a key-start and backup pull-cord.  You either connect cords and/or use a transfer switch device to power selected circuits.  This approach can cost between $3000 and $ 7000 depending on size, style and site requirements.

• Size:  7500 watts (running, peak/surge around 8000 watts) is a good comfortable size.  5000 watts will do, but as you go lower, it will not be able to power as much, and will work harder.

• Stationary, or on wheels?  In most cases, people have the generator stored in the garage and wheel it into place when they need it.  Sometimes, it is permanently secured.

• Fuel Type:  The basic manual generators use normal unleaded fuel.  For these, you have to refill them occasionally just like a lawn mower.  If your house has natural gas, you can have a permanently installed automatice generator with natural gas feeding it.

• Automatic generators detect power outages and start themselves within about 30 seconds.   The important circuits are powered as soon as the generator is ready.  Once the power company restores power, the unit shuts itself off again.  They can also do periodic self-testing and exercise.  This option can cost between $8000 and $12,000 and more depending on the size of the generator and what is being connected.  Some plumbing of natural gas or propane will be involved

3. Stationary, or on wheels?  In most cases, people have the generator stored in the garage and wheel it into place when they need it.  Sometimes, it is permanently secured.

4. Fuel Type:  The basic manual generators use normal unleaded fuel.  For these, you have to refill them occasionally just like a lawn mower.  If your house has natural gas or propane, you can have a permanently installed automatic generator with natural gas feeding it.
   

Helpful Hint:  Don't you wish there was an easy-to-follow instruction set for connecting to your generator.  We have written our own step-by-step  instruction sheet.  The aim was simplicity and understanding.  We have similar but different instructions for your scenario:  gasoline or natural gas, Cutler Hammer or GenTrans transfer switch.

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GFIs or GFCIs

Helpful Hints: Do you have some lights or outlets not working?  A GFI outlet or GFI circuit breaker may have tripped. 
(Common areas affected by GFI outlets include: bathroom outlets, garage wall outlets, outside outlets,  outlets in unfinished basements.   Kitchen counter outlets also now have GFI outlets but they operate independently from the bathroom, garage, etc.)
Also read the sections: "Overloaded circuits" and "Short circuits".

• If the lights or outlets in or near a bathroom are not working, look in all the bathrooms for a GFI outlet.  GFI outlets have a [Test] and a [Reset] button on them.  Often lights and outlets are on separate circuits.  This means even if the lights in the bathroom work, the outlet may not.  And you may even have more than one GFI outlet.  If you have trouble finding them, try looking in the basement, garage or even outside! (Some contractors tried to save money by putting all the required GFI-protected outlets on one circuit and put the GFI outlet itself closer to the panel.)

• Press the [Test] button (often it's black) and then the [Reset] button (often red).  If when you press the [Test] button you hear a loud click, then the outlet was already in working condition and it had not tripped.  Be sure to reset it with the [Reset] button.

• A GFI circuit breaker looks different than the normal circuit breakers.  Unlike most breakers, it has a [Test] button on it.  To reset a GFI breaker, be sure to click it completely OFF, before pushing it back to the on position.  If it will not stay ON and shuts itself off, there may be a problem with the breaker, the circuit or something plugged into the circuit.

Safety Information

• It is possible to connect a GFI outlet backwards and therefore, not be protected. It should only be installed by a qualified electrician.

• Any outlet can be replaced with a GFI outlet.

• A GFI outlet can protect not only itself, but also other outlets connected to it.

• GFI circuit breakers can be installed to protect an entire circuit.

  
  GFI outlets (or circuit breakers) have a [Test] button on them. You can check if the device is functioning properly by pushing the [Test] button, usually black, and a click will be heard. Verify that the outlet no longer works, then reset the outlet with the [Reset] button (usually red).

General Background

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI or GFI) are special electronic devices to protect people from fatal electric shocks. Note, however, that you can still get a shock. There's an important difference between these devices and circuit breakers or fuses. Breakers and fuses are designed to disconnect power from a circuit when there is too much electrical current flowing. If too much current flows, the wires will overheat and create a fire hazard. Most circuit breakers are 15 or 20 amps, this equals 15,000 or 20,000 milli-amps. The bad news: it can take as little as 10 milli-amps to fatally shock someone. The good news: GFIs are designed to shut-off when it determines that only 5 milli-amps are "missing", presumably it could be shocking someone.

GFIs were first instituted into the electrical code requirements for bathroom outlets in the early 1970s. Over time, they have proven their effectiveness and have become required in more an more situations. Now, GFI protection is required in areas where the potential for shocks is quite likely: bathrooms, kitchens, unfinished basements, garages, outdoors, jacuzzis, hot tubs.

According to when your house was built, or when work was done in certain areas, you can expect to find Ground Fault protection in the following areas:

Starting in
  Year         Location
1973                 Bathroom outlets
1973                 Outside outlets
1987                 Garage outlets
1987                 Outlets in unfinished basements, crawl spaces
1993                 Kitchen counter outlets within 6’ of sink
1996                 All kitchen counter outlets

Remember: Outlets in one location may be protected by outlets in another location. If you have an outlet not working in one of these areas, check the other areas to look for the resetable outlet with push buttons.  And don't forget to check the circuit breaker box to see if there is an unusual GFI breaker with a push-button there.

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Grounded outlets

Grounded outlets have the '3rd hole' for the ground wire connection. Most electrical work after 1960 or so have grounded outlets. A few things to note:

• Grounded outlets have the 3rd hole below (usually) the 2 straight vertical prongs;

• Sometimes, people replaced ungrounded outlets with grounded outlets without connecting the ground wire. This means that older homes may appear to have a grounded outlet that in fact is not grounded.

• Most homes, even if they do not have grounded outlets have grounded wiring in the house. This makes the installation of grounded outlets a simple operation.

• The lack of grounded wiring can be made safer by installing GFI outlets. (Refer to the article on GFI outlets since they also can be installed backward and not provide their special protection.)

• Many new items with a grounded plug may also require a new, separate circuit. For example, tread-mills, air conditioners, microwave ovens and generally appliances that generate heat or cold need a lot of power. It may be more than your circuit can handle.

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Heating problems

There are 5 common types of heating systems:

• Hot air, with a gas or oil burner to heat the air, and a fan to blow it through the ductwork.  Usually each furnace handles 1 zone.

• Hot water baseboard, with a gas or oil burner and a circulator pump to pump the heated water through the baseboard heaters.  Multiple zones can be achieved with multiple circulator pumps controlled by different thermostats.

• Steam systems are the simplest with just a furnace and no pumps or fans.

• Electric heat.  Each room or zone has its own electric baseboard heater with a thermostat either on the wall or on the unit.

• Heat pump.  This is basically an air conditioner running backwards.  It heats the air blown through the duct work.  Since it looses efficiency below 40 F., there may be electric heaters inside the ductwork to supplement it.

Helpful Hints:  If your heat is not working, here are there are some basic items to check:

Hot air systems:

• Most heating systems have a shut-off switch on the furnace itself, and sometimes at the top of the basement stairs or in the attic for attic systems..  It may have a red switch plate.  Check that the switch is on.

• There is a blower fan to blow the heated air through the ducts.  The lower door on a furnace blower usually has a safety switch to prevent the fan from turning on during maintenance.  Check that the lower panel is securely fastened.  Even bang against it if you're not sure. If it doesn't work, read on.  If it does, but you get no heat, you should contact a heating contractor.  (You can call us for a referral if you want.)
  

• Older gas systems may have a pilot light that must be lit.  Check it.  If not, contact a heating contractor.
  

• Newer gas systems have ignitors that glow as they are turn on and ignite the gas.  Can you see it glowing?  If not, you should contact a heating contractor. (You can call us for a referral if you want.)

• Check that the circuit breaker for the furnace has not tripped.  To check, click the breaker off, and then click it back on again. (see: Circuit Breakers)  If the breaker has tripped, you probably should call us first.  It may be a furnace problem causing it to trip but it may be a wiring problem.

• When was the last time you changed the filter.  A clogged filter can restrict air flow, cause the system to overheat and trigger the overheat sensor to shut down the system.
  

Hot water baseboard:

• Most heating systems have a shut-off switch on the furnace itself, and sometimes at the top of the basement stairs or in the attic for attic systems..  It may have a red switch plate.  Check that the switch is on.

• Older gas systems may have a pilot light that must be lit.  Check it.

• Newer gas systems have ignitors that glow as they are turn on and ignite the gas.  Can you see it glowing?  If not, you should contact a heating contractor. (You can call us for a referral if you want.)

• Check that the circuit breaker for the furnace has not tripped.  To check, click the breaker off, and then click it back on again. (see: Circuit Breakers) If the breaker has tripped, you probably should call us first.  It may be a furnace problem causing it to trip but it may be a wiring problem.

Steam heat:

• Check that the circuit breaker for the furnace has not tripped.  To check, click the breaker off, and then click it back on again. (see: Circuit Breakers) If the breaker has tripped, you probably should call us first.  It may be a furnace problem causing it to trip but it may be a wiring problem.

• The furnace has many safety interlocks for water level, temperature, etc.  It is probably too complicated for the homeowner to do without professional help.  Call a heating specialist.

Electric heat:
Is it just one, or several baseboard heaters that are not working?

• Check the thermostat setting.  Does the thermostat control several heaters but only one is not working?  If so, give us a call.
  

• Check the circuit breakers.  The double breaker may control more than 1 thermostat/zone.  (see: Circuit Breakers)  Call us to check it out.
  

Heat Pump
If you get air coming through the ducts but no heat, the heat pump (a/c compressor) may not be running.  Read about central air conditioners above, and check whether the unit is running.  You will probably need to contact a heating/cooling contractor.  (You can call us for a referral if you want.)

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Holiday lights not lighting?

If your holiday lights are giving trouble, it can stress anyone, whether you're celebrating Christmas, Hanukkah or an other celebration.  Here are some ideas:

• Check if the outlet where they plug in is working.  Outside outlets are often protected by a GFCI outlet somewhere.  Read this section here.  

• If you can't reset the GFCI outlet, unplug the lights and see if the outlet can be reset.  If so, try the lights, one set at at time.  A problem light set could have water in the plug or lights, and cause the GFCI outlet to trip.   

• If the outlet works but only part of the lights, check to see if you have too many light sets plugged in end to end.  Typically, you can only plug 3 strings of lights end to end.  There's a fuse in the plug of each set that will blow if you have too many.  

• If the beginning part of some lights works, but not subsequent sets of lights, check the fuse in the plug of the first set of non-working lights (and make sure you don't have too many plugged in end to end).

• You can use extension cords to separate sets of lights.  One trick is to put the plugs in zip-lock plastic bags to help keep rain, snow or just dew from getting to the connection.

• If you're using a lot of lights, you could even overload the circuit and cause the breaker to trip.  Read about breakers here.   (Often outside outlets are on the same circuits as bathroom outlets.  If you use a hair dryer when the lights are on, you could cause the breaker to trip.
  

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Home Inspections

When buying a home, the home inspection is very important.  A large investment needs qualified, professional help.  A good realtor is step one.  A good lawyer and title search comes next.  Evaluating the physical house is also key.   It would be a foolish mistake to buy without getting an inspection by a qualified inspector.  However, there are 2 basic issues to remember:
1.)  Inspectors are generalists. They can give an overview of what they can see and offer opinions based on their experience.  Usually, they are on target but sometimes they are wrong.  They can miss items, misjudge the seriousness or underestimate the cost to fix the problem.  When in doubt, talk to an experienced specialist, eg. Plumber, electrician, roofer, etc.
2.)  How did you learn of the inspector?  Remember that the inspector is balancing 2 issues.  If the inspector is too strict, rigid and pessimistic, he may not get a referral next time.  If  he is too casual and optimistic, he may miss items and end up being sued.  It's not an easy job.

Although it would be nice to hire several experts instead of a generalist, it isn't practical at the outset.  Get the overall inspection first.  But if there are any flags raised, consider hiring an specialist to evaluate the house.

What are the most common problems we get calls for?  "Doubled tapped" wires on breakers, ungrounded or reverse wired outlets, Federal Pacific - Stab Lok panels, and extension cords (temporary wiring) for permanent equipment such as garage door openers, lights, etc.   Except for the Federal Pacific panel issue, these are smaller items to correct.  If you want to make a good impression on a potential buyer, have these problems addressed before you get an inspection.

Helpful Hint
Buying a house?  Has the house been remodeled and upgraded?  Who did it and what were their qualifications?  Is the work sloppy and amateurish?  When done by a unqualified homeowner or unqualified professional,  the work can be dangerous and expensive to correct.  (Of course, everyone says their work is good.  Have you ever heard anyone say their work is not any good!)  You may want to live in this house but you should be making an informed decision knowing its potential hazards and costs.

Selling a house?  Go through your house ahead of time and look for improper items that you've lived with over the years.   What do you think the buyer and home inspector will think when they see it?   Your realtor can be helpful in sharing experience garnered over the years of how people react.  Taking care of problems before hand is easier, cheaper and less stressful than waiting until the last minute. 

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Hot Tubs

The requirements of the water pumps, air blowers and heating coils require a lot of power, as much as a double oven!  Not only will a heavy duty circuit be required, but special ground-fault protection is needed as well.  There are also requirements about the location of outlets nearby and an accessible power disconnect.  This makes the electrical installation quite involved.  It can cost from $900 - $1800 depending on where the hot tub is going, the difficulty of running the wiring and other items required to pass the electric code.

Helpful Hints:

• If your hot tub isn't working:

• Check if there's power at the hot tub.  Try the light and blower.

• Is there a GFI reset button on the controls (sometimes behind the access door)?

• Has the circuit breaker tripped?  Try clicking the breaker completely off and then back on again.

• Perhaps the breaker only trips when the heater is turned on.  This would indicate that the heater needs to be replaced.

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Humidistats

Since forced hot air systems dry the air while they heat it, humidifiers are used to add moisture back to the air.  A humidistat checks the humidity level and turns the humidifier on when necessary.  The humidistat may be attached to the ducting near the heater to measure the return air, or it may be located next to the thermostat in the house.  Generally 40% humidity is a good setting.  If it gets very cold, 40% humidity may cause the warm humid air to condense on the cold windows.  If this happens, simply lower the setting 5% at a time for a few hours to see if the situation 'clears' up.

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Kitchens

Kitchens are where the action is.  Kitchens are where families spend a lot of time.  People cook, do paperwork and homework and socialize.  It's no wonder it's one of the most electrically complex areas of the house.  Quite simply, people use a lot of electricity there.  You heat a lot of things all at once, you use appliances, you need lots of light to see.  Older homes often have 1 circuit for the kitchen outlets and lights, often fed from the basement below where the washer and dryer are.  Well,  30 years ago, we weren't using the microwave ovens, toasters and toaster/ovens, coffee makers, dishwashers like today.

In the interest of safety, the electric code looks to reduce overloaded wires (fire hazard), extension cords (tripping and damaged wiring hazard) and dangerous electrical situations (shock hazard).  Over time, the code has required more and larger capacity circuits than before, as well as GFI outlets for personal safety.  Although older homes may not have the specifications we need today, kitchen remodeling will require you to comply with today's code.  Remember that the code is modified over time based on problems and hazards that have been reported in the real world.  Here's a rundown of the code requirements and why:

At least two 20 amp circuits for the kitchen counters, and not shared with anything else in the house except the dining room outlets.  This is to prevent tripping circuit breakers from too many things running at once on the circuit.  Even small microwave ovens can use as much power as a hairdryer.  A look at the chart below will give you some idea of the power needs in the kitchen.  As a comparison, note how little power a 60 watt bulb needs.
     

Outlets for the kitchen counter need to be protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFI or GFCI).  This is usually a special outlet with push buttons for Test and Reset on it.  One of these special outlets can protect other normal-looking outlets on the counter.  Newer homes will probably have at least 2 of these special outlets on the counter.  Refer to the GFI section for more general information.

Since counter outlet circuits are supposed to be dedicated to the countertop, other items such as refrigerator, lights, hood, dishwasher, garbage disposal are not to be on the same circuit.

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Knob and Tube wiring

Knob and tube wiring was one of the first methods of running electrical power in a house.  It served its purpose well for many years but its exposed installation and age makes it a safety issue.  Home insurance companies often require it to be replaced before they will insure a house.  It's a lot like tires, even if they've been great for years (and even if they've just been sitting there doing nothing), they deteriorate and need to be replaced.
This link takes to a good article decribing knob and tube wiring in greater detail.

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Lightning

It's virtually impossible to prevent lightning strikes.  Lightning rods may provide an easy path to ground to minimize the effect of lightning on the house but they're unsightly, expensive and difficult to find certified installers.  (We do not install lightning rod systems.)  Furthermore, damage to the electronics of a house may not come from a direct hit, but could come in via power lines, telephone lines or cable TV lines. We can install Surge suppressors and lightning arrestors at the panel are good ways to minimize the damage.  Go to Surge Suppressors for more information and prices.
 

What do you do if your house had been damage by lightning?
Since most home insurance provides coverage (less the deductible), it's important to compile a thorough list of what has been damaged.  As you scan the list before, you'll probably be surprised at how many things in your house contain electronics and can be affected.

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Motion Sensors

Motion sensors to control lights are a great invention!  They're economical, practical and reliable.  They usually are used to control outdoor floodlights or fixtures.  The purpose is to turn on the lights if it's dark and there is motion in the area.

• You can set how long they stay on; 5-10 minutes is good since the time is for how long the light stays on after motion ceases in the area.  If you're out there for 15 minutes, the light stays on for another 5-10 minutes after you leave.

• The units can be aimed and the sensitivity is adjustable.

• Some units have the option to keep lights dim from dusk to dawn, and if there's motion in the area, they turn the lights on full until after motion ceases.  This is better for wall sconce applications by entry doors.

• Manual over-ride feature if you want to leave the lights on for arriving guests.

If you want to manually turn the lights on, even if there is no motion triggering the lights, the sensor had a built-in feature that lets you use the wall switch to override the sensor.  (This feature only works when it's dark.)

• Shut the switch off for one second, then turn it back on.  This tells the motion sensor to deactivate the motion control and to simply turn on like a normal light.

• When you're ready to go back to normal 'Motion Sensor' mode, shut the switch off for one second and then back on again.  If you forget to go back to 'Motion Sensor' mode, when it gets light the next day the unit will automatically goes back to 'Motion Sensor' mode.

Helpful Hint:  The switch for the motion sensor light must stay on.  This allows the electricity to go to the sensor for it to operate.  If the switch is off, the unit can't work.  If the unit is not working, make sure the switch is on and make sure you have good bulbs installed.  If animals trigger the light, you can try reducing the sensitivity or adjusting the aim of the sensor.

Instruction manual for our most common unit: Heath-Zenith manual

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No Power

Power problems can be divided into 2 basic categories:  house wiring problems or utility problems

Is the power out in only part of the house, only some lights or some outlets?

• Check for a tripped circuit breaker.  If all the breakers look normal, double check by individually clicking each breaker 'Off' and then back 'On'.  Circuit breakers don't always indicate whether they have tripped.  However, if when you reset a breaker, you hear a buzz, or see a spark or the existing lights flicker, you have a short circuit and need to call us to locate and fix the problem.

• If the power problem is related to an outlet for a bathroom, garage, basement or outdoors, you may have to find a GFI outlet located in another of these areas.  A GFI outlet in one area often affects the outlets in these other areas.   Read up on GFI outlets in this Helpful Hints section.

• If a kitchen counter outlet is not working, it could be the breaker, or you may have a GFI outlet elsewhere on the kitchen counter area.

• Have lights been flickering occasionally, getting dimmer, or even getting unusually brighter sometimes?  It's helpful to know which type of flickering you have: brighter then back to normal, or dimmer and then back to normal.  In either case, this indicates a poor connection that needs to be corrected.

Also read the sections: "Overloaded circuits", "Short circuits" and "GFI outlets"

Is the power out in the entire house?

• Check your main circuit breaker.  Reset it if it has tripped off.   This is very unusual.

• Do your neighbors have power?  Are their lights on?  Call them to check.  If the neighbors are without power than you can expect that the power company has a problem it has to fix.  Call them with your information.
  

Helpful Hint:  If you notice lights getting brighter, then returning to normal, this indicates high voltages that could also affect and damage electronic devices like computers, TVs and more.  Don't delay getting this fixed.

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Overloaded Circuits

Circuit breakers and fuses are designed to protect wires from overheating due to electrical overloads. If you try to use too much electricity on a wire, it heats up and becomes a fire hazard. A good analogy would be too much water pressure in a pipe which would cause it to burst.) For example, if you have multiple electric plug-in heaters or air conditioners on a circuit, it will probably cause the circuit breaker to trip. You don't simply install a larger circuit breaker since the wire would be no larger and would still overheat. The solution is to have the appliances on separate circuits. This may mean simply plugging into another outlet on a different circuit, or we may need to add wiring to provide a separate circuit and outlet.
What are the big energy users?  If it creates heat, or cold, you can expect it to need more power than simply lights or electronics.  These items can be fine by themselves, but if they are operating at the same time as another big item, the circuit breaker may trip.  Most wall outlets and lights are on a 15 amp breaker.  Kitchen and bathroom outlets are not put on 20 amp circuits since they know these areas have heavy demands.

Helpful Hint: At first, you can't tell whether a breaker has tripped from an overloaded circuit or a short-circuit. Resetting a circuit breaker often has a trick to it that most people do not know.

• A tripped circuit breaker often doesn't look any different than the other breakers. This is why we often tell customers to go through all the individual breakers (not the main breaker), turn each one off and then click it back to the 'On' position.

• To reset a tripped breaker, many brands require first that you 'click' the breaker to the off position before turning it back on.

  
  Important: If you reset the breaker and hear a loud hum and/or it shuts itself off right away, you probably have a short-circuit. Call us to locate and repair the problem. We can usually tell you beforehand what is involved and what it will cost.

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Radon fans

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Recessed lights (also called 'high hats'):

Recessed lights are composed of the housing, which is installed in (above) the ceiling and the trim which is attached to the house and is the visible portion you see from the room.  The trims are mostly interchangeable within a brand and model.  Obviously, different size trims (4" or 6") are not interchangeable since they have different housings.  To a limited extent, some trims can be used on different brands but only in certain cases.

A key concept in lighting is determining where you need lights.  Is for general illumination, fireplace mantle or paintings?  Based on the lighting needs, we come up with a layout of lights and 'zones'.  Zones refer to which lights are to be controlled together and where the switch should be for the set of lights.

There are several types and styles of recessed lights:
 

The lights come in 2 basic installation methods:
 

Finally there are some issues regarding the space above the ceiling and insulation:
   

Most of our work is in rooms where the ceiling is already in place.  If there is a room (a bedroom, for example) above the ceiling, the work is more difficult than if there is an accessible attic.

Fortunately, we excel at adding recessed lights even if there is no access.  Usually, our work is invisible with no signs of how we got our wires into place.  Occasionally, not often, we have to make a small hole at the top of a wall to snake wires.  We only do that after checking with you first.  Any hole we make, we will patch so it's smooth again.  Even if you have wallpapered walls, we have ways to do our work 'invisibly'.  For some photographs of our lighting work, click here.

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Reverse polarity / reverse wiring

You may encounter talk about reversed wired outlets or lights. This could come during a home inspection, appliance repair, or after getting a shock from touching a lamp or appliance. Wiring is generally connected so that the 'hot' or 'live' wire is less likely to come in contact with other items. The live wire should not appear on the outside shell of a fixture or bulb, the fixture should not have power when it is turned off at the switch and appliances plugged into polarized and/or grounded outlets should have the power on the live portion. To ensure this, there is a wiring standard for appliances, lights, switches and outlets. If house wires, fixtures wires, etc. are connected incorrectly, you could have a shock hazard waiting to happen. The wiring problem may not even be at the outlet which is testing as faulty. The safest solution is to contact us. Most likely, we'll be scheduling a time to come out and correct the problem.

Helpful Hint: Hardware stores sell a simple plug-in tester that will tell you if the outlet is grounded and wired correctly.

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Service Changes and Service Upgrades

Three definitions:

• Service:            This is the main electric power cabling system starting from where the utility company wires connect to the house wires, down to the main electric circuit breaker panel (or fuse panel).  The responsibility of the electric utility company ends at the point where their overhead wires are hooked onto the house by the roof line.  The don't even install the service hook which is screwed into the house to hold the wire from the street.  They do provide the glass electric meter, but only PSE&G provides the metal box for the meter.

• Service change:  This involves replacing the main service cable from the roof line, the meter box, and the circuit breaker panel (or panels) with the same size cabling and panel.  Since this is typically a repair, there is sales tax.

• Service upgrade: This uses a larger capacity main service cable, meter box and circuit breaker panel.  As a capital improvement, there is no sales tax for this work.

When we get a call about a service change or service upgrade, our first question is: Why?
It's an expensive project and we want to be sure you're doing it for the right reason.  Although it can solve problems, by itself, it may not solve your basic issue.  If you're tripping circuit breakers or fuses, we need to discuss that and how that needs to be corrected.  That solution may involve the service change/upgrade as part of it.

There are two main reasons why you may need to replace your main electrical panel:

1. The circuit breaker panel is corroded from water getting in.  This will also require replacing the outside cable since the cable has allowed water to get in.  As you will see from the prices below, you may want to upgrade, or increase, the size of your electrical service at the same time.

2. The circuit breaker panel is too small for the power requirements of your house.  They didn't use as much electricity in years past as they do now.  We now have more appliances and more powerful devices than ever.  Microwave ovens, powerful hair dryers and vacuum cleaners, all demand more power and more circuits.  An upgrade allows for more electricity to flow and more circuits in the panel to serve more outlets, lights and appliances.  Note, however that a service upgrade alone does not mean you automatically have more circuits.  You simply have the room to add more circuit breakers in the panel where you can connect more wires to feed outlets, lights and appliances.  See our Helpful Hints section on Overloaded Circuits.

If you have to replace the panel, odds are you'll also have to replace the cable on the outside of the house feeding it, and the meter box as well.  And if the cable is in poor condition, it probably has been letting water in to corrode the meter box and circuit panel.  Occasionally, we are called to replace only the panel or cabling.  This is usually because the other part was done a few years earlier without doing the full job, and now the 2nd part needs to be done.

Helpful Hint:  When doing a service change or service upgrade, you should consider adding a surge suppressors at the panel to provide protection at the house.

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Short Circuits
A short circuit is caused when the 'hot' wire comes in contact with a grounded wire or surface. This allows the electricity to take a 'short-cut'. The problem is that this short-cut will be taken by a extremely high amount of electricity thus overloading the wire. The heat and sparking is a fire hazard which the circuit breaker avoids by shutting itself off.

Helpful Hint: At first, you can't tell whether a breaker has tripped from an overloaded circuit or a short-circuit. Resetting a circuit breaker often has a trick to it that most people do not know.

• A tripped circuit breaker often doesn't look any different than the other breakers. This is why we often tell customers to go through all the individual breakers (not the main breaker), turn each one off and then click it back to the 'On' position.

• To reset a tripped breaker, many brands require first that you 'click' the breaker to the off position before turning it back on.

  
  Important: If you reset the breaker and hear a loud hum and/or it shuts itself off right away, you probably have a short-circuit. Call us to locate and repair the problem. We can usually tell you beforehand what is involved and what it will cost.

Also read the sections: "Overloaded circuits" and "GFI outlets"

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Smoke Detectors    for Carbon monoxide detectors, click here.
Important Information:  Smoke detector manufacturer  recommend replacing smoke detectors at least every 10 years.  Research shows 30% of detectors fail after 10 years, 50% after 15 years!  (Read about CO detector replacement (5-7 years) by clicking here.)  More information is available at NFPA (National Fire Prevention Assoc.) web site.    An excerpt:  "Section 8-3.5 of NFPA 72 now requires all single-station and multiple-station smoke alarms to be replaced every ten years."   Or read the FAQs at Kidde.
We're used to getting calls occasionally to replace defective smoke detectors, now we know why.  This should become a planned maintenance item.  How old is your house and your detectors?   Our units have a latching relay (to tell you which unit triggered the alarm) and a temporary hush feature. This what you can expect it to cost for us to replace your detectors:
And by the way, if you also have a (low voltage) burglar alarm/smoke detector system,  you still need the 120 volt interconnected detectors we're discussing here to satisfy fire code.  The reason is that a homeowner could easily choose to not use their alarm system and therefore not have a functioning smoke detector system in the home.

General Information
Enjoying life lately?  How about ensuring that you and your family are around to enjoy more?  Reports have shown that over half of the smoke detectors in homes are not functioning properly.  Often, it's as simple as a bad battery, or sometimes, people have even removed the battery!

There are 3 basic types of smoke detector installations:

1. Battery only (9 volt) which are simply attached to the ceiling.  These are usually found in homes built before 1980 or so.

2. 'Hard-wired' 120 volt smoke detectors.  Homes built after 1980.  These are wired similarly to lights, etc., but they are also interconnected so that if 1 detector senses smoke, all the detectors go off.  This is so you hear the alarm even if you're in another part of the house.  Almost all of these units now also have a volt battery back-up power.  In case of a power outage, when people may bring out candles, it's nice to know the detectors will still be functioning.

3. 'Hard-wired' low voltage smoke detectors.  (Some homes with security systems.)  These are part of the household burglar alarm system.  The battery back-up of the alarm system provides power in case the electricity goes out.  These systems are best maintained by your alarm company. (Note that these alarms alone do not satisfy the residential fire code (see not above).

If you have 120 volt powered smoke detectors, now would be a good time to find out what circuit they are on and label it.  You don't want to try to figure out what breaker it is if you get a false alarm in the middle of the night.  Have someone watch the power LED while you flip breakers off until the LED goes out.

What do you do if your smoke detector system goes off?
First, check to be sure everyone is safe and there is no fire.  Sounds simple but you don't want to assume that it's a false alarm.  If it is a false alarm:

• For battery or single detectors (non-interconnected), you can try to clear the alarm by blowing or vacuuming around the detector in case dust is causing a problem.  Your last resort is to remove/disconnect the power or battery.

• For interconnected smoke detectors, you need to determine which detector is causing the alarm and disconnect it.

  • Different models of smoke detectors have different methods of indicating which detector is initiating the alarm and thereby activating all the others.  The key is the red LED indicator lights.  On some systems, the problem detector will show no red LED while the others all have steady on LEDs or blinking LEDs.  Some systems are the opposite.  What do you do for your situation?  The answer is simple;  "it's odd man out."  Simply look at the detectors and see which one detector has a different LED pattern than the others.  The one that is different is the one that needs to be replaced.

  • If you know what circuit breaker powers the detectors, turn the breaker off.  The battery back-up will still keep the detectors alarming.

  • Then, usually a simple counter clockwise twist of the smoke detector will allow you to detach the unit from its mounting plate.  Then disconnect the plug connector on the back.  Be careful if the circuit breaker is not off since you have 120 power at the plug connector.  At this point, the other detectors should stop alarming and be silent.  If not, you haven't found the problem detector.

  • Finally, remove the 9 volt battery and the problem detector should stop sounding.

• Low voltage detectors are wired as a zone.  You should be able to deactivate or by-pass the zone.  You will have to check your manual or alarm company for more information.

Helpful Hints:

• Test your system occasionally.  For interconnected units, it helps to have someone else to tell you if the other detectors also are triggered when you press the test button.  Usually, they start 1 or 2 seconds after the first one.  Be sure to press the test button on each unit.  Even you've had a lightning strike or surge, be sure to test the detectors to verify their electronics have not been damaged.  See Surges below and Lightning above.

• Replace all the batteries every 6 months.  An occasional chirp sound indicates low battery.  Be sure the battery back-up of your smoke detector system is working properly.  (Usually, the detectors have an indicator light that blinks every 30 seconds to show the battery is still good.  Different brands and models vary in how they show power and battery.)

• If you're getting an occasional chirp and you've changed all the batteries, also check your carbon monoxide detectors to see if their batteries need replacement.  Red more on CO detectors, click here.

• If your detectors are over 10 years old, it's important to replace all of them.  See the UPDATE at the beginning of this Smoke Detector section.  New detectors are 120 volt with battery backup, can indicate which unit is triggering the alarm, and sometimes have a temporary shut-off for cases of nuisance alarms.

• If you need more information about your detector:  (Firex brand is more common in this area)

• Kidde detector User's Guide on our site:  English version   or Spanish Version

• Kidde (for both Kidde and Firex brands)  go to http://www.kidde.com/utcfs/Templates/Pages/Template-53/0,8062,pageId%3D4363%26siteId%3D384,00.html
  

• For BRK or First Alert, go to http://www.firstalert.com/faq/Smoke_Alarm_FAQs

• Smoke detectors work as a system. You can't mix different brands in a system, they have compatible electronics.
  

• Identify and label the circuit breaker for the smoke detectors.  This has 2 benefits:

  1. You can shut the circuit off and test the battery back-up.  Press the test buttons on each unit.

  2. If the unit goes bad in the middle of the night and triggers all the detectors, you'll be glad you know which breaker controls them.  Although the battery will still control them, you are one step closer to quieting them.

• Notes: (BOCA - Building Officials and Code Administrators), (NFPA - National Fire Protection Association)
  1984  BOCA requires 1 detector per floor
  

  1988  BOCA requires interconnected detectors
  1989 NFPA 74   requires interconnected detectors in new construction, 1 per floor
  1993 NFPA 72   requires interconnected detectors in new construction, 1 per floor/1 within 10 feet of any bedroom, 1 in each bedroom
  1999 NFPA 72   requires smoke detector replacement after 10 years maximum

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Sump pumps: stay dry

Don't take a dry basement for granted.  A flooded basement can be a nuisance or an expensive mess.  A sump pump is great as long as it works.  An investment now can mean big savings later. 
A reliable sump pump installation should have these features:

• The power for the pump should be a dedicated circuit so it doesn't get overloaded when you need it.

• The pump should be in good operating condition.  Have you tested it and seen it work lately?

• The float switch operation should be clear of obstructions.  If the switch can not turn on, the pump won't work.

• The piping should be unobstructed so the water can flow freely.

• An alarm if the water level reaches a certain point to alert you to the problem.

(A minimum cautionary step is a battery operated water alarm to alert you if the floor by the pump, water heater or furnace (a/c condensate) is wet.  We can mail you a sensor for $55 each.)

With all of the above in good order, what do you do if:

• the power fails?

• the float switch fails?

• the pump fails?

The solution to these problems is a back-up sump pump.  This is a secondary pump that is triggered if the water level gets above a certain point, indicating that the main pump is not working. 

• Battery-powered: This uses a special 12 volt (sometimes 24 volt) battery  which is tested and kept fully charged by a monitoring/controlling equipment. Typically, the pump can run continuously for 10 hours without recharging.  Need more time?  A 2nd battery doubles the coverage, and if the power is still out, the 12 volt batteries can be recharged by simply connecting to your car with battery jumper cables.  We install a typical battery back-up system for about:  $1200.00

• Water-pressure powered:  If you have city water (not well water), there are pumps that use the house water to turn a turbine which pumps out the sump water.  All the water is pumped outside.  There are different brands and research to pick a good one is necessary.  A plumber is used for installation.
  
  
  
   Helpful Hints:

• Check your sump pump occasionally to be sure it's ready to work..

• Be sure you have the battery powered water sensors near the sump pump and hot water heater.

Overview of some options to protect your basement.

Options/ideas	Price	Alerts you if the water level is high	Helps even if regular sump pump is defective	Works if there is no power	Works if you're not home	Notes / Other functions
Water sensor (sound only)	$20	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Use for water heater leaks, a/c condensate leaks
Battery back-up Sump Pump	$1200	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	-
(City) Water powered sump pump	$1200.00	No	Yes	Yes	Yes	Installed by plumber
Backup generator	$5000 (manual) -  $10,000 (fully automatic	Yes	No	Yes	Yes	Power for the heating system, refrigerator, lights, well pump, ejector pump...... you get the idea.

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Surges: What are they?

Electronic components are a key element in many of today's appliances and devices. From complex computers and entertainment audio/video systems, to telephones and answering machines, electronics and micro-processors are the brains that drive many of our valuable possessions. Due to the electrically fragile nature of electronics, it is important to protect them from surges of unacceptably high voltages.

A power surge or 'spike' can occur virtually instantaneously, changing 120 volts to several hundred volts. It may last only a fraction of a second, but it can cause permanent damage to electronics around the home and office. Surges can occur from a nearby lightning strike, from power lines in the neighborhood, or even from someone turning a light switch on or off in the house. About 80% of surges come from within the building.
Important note:  Surges can also enter the home through telephone, cable and satellite lines.  The damage can affect not only these devices but others around the house also.  You should have surge protection for these communication lines as well as the power lines.  Look for surge suppressors which also have fittings for telephone and TV cables.
 

Surge suppressors are like car shock absorbers, absorbing the brunt of the surge coming down an electrical line.  The IEEE (Institute of Electrical Engineers) recommends 2 layers of protection.  You may want to consider the UPS we mention below.  No surge suppressor can withstand a direct lightning strike, which is highly unlikely.  However, it can help to minimize the effects of a lightning strike in the area.

1. Primary protection at the main electrical panel.  This surge protector installs on or in the panel.  Indicator lights tell you whether the unit is providing protection or whether it has been damaged/worn out while protected your home.  Better quality surge units also connect to and protect telephone and cable/satellite lines.

2. A plug-in surge suppressor or a surge suppressor power strip at your computer, stereo, etc. These can also filter out line noise that can affect TV pictures and audio in speakers.

3. A dedicated circuit for your most valuable equipment can help isolate it from other circuits that may cause a problem.  For computers, a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) is an even better idea.

Helpful Hints:

• Many surge suppressor strips come with connections for TV cable and/or telephone. Surges in those areas can be just as damaging as power line surges. A combination unit is a good idea: power and telephone for the computer with modem, or power and cable for TV equipment.

• To add a surge suppressor at the panel:  $400 - $800.  It depends on what type, whether it's for power alone or also telephone and cable, and whether additional work is needed to connect telephone and cable wires to the devices.

• Here's a link to a manufacturer of surge suppressors:  http://www.surgeassure.com/homeowners.aspx   To promote protection in the home, SurgeAssure has an arrangement to provide discounts to MetLife customers.  We also provide their surge protectors at a discount.  Call to discuss the options and costs.
  

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Timers
A handy way to turn lights on and off automatically is with timers.  Some can handle large electrical circuits like pumps and motors, others are for lights.  There are several types:

•  In-wall switch replacements (these can replace the standard wall switch)

  • Round dial timer   Mechanical dial timer (rotary dial is used for programming but does not turn during normal use.
    

  • Digital timers

    •                   Intermatic S7C with removable clear window to access programming buttons (unit protrudes from wall 1 inch)

    •   Intermatic ST01 with opaque panel door which opens for programming and battery (unit protrudes slightly from the wall).

    •     Intermatic EJ500 with opaque panel door which opens to access programming buttons (unit is flush)

    •       Aube with opaque panel door which opens to access programming buttons (unit is slush)

• X-10/Leviton wireless transmitter timer
  

• Mechanical timers for pumps, lights and more.  These have many variations to suit the application.

Round dial type:

• Press to manually turn lights on or off without upsetting the settings.

• Easy to set

• Handles only 500 watts or less of light.

• Memory of 15 minutes without power, then you need to reset it.

• Minimum wattage: 40 watts.  This means that you cannot use low wattage fluorescent screw-in bulbs.

   

  Helpful Hint:  There is a red indicator light on the timer.  In normal operation (not programing mode) the red indicator light shows the status.
  Flashing:    The program has been lost, perhaps due to a power failure of over 15 minutes.
  Off:           The timer may be in Manual mode. (see below).  Or, all the bulbs may be burned out.
  On:           Timer is in automatic timer mode.

  If the light is not on:

  • Press the button twice quickly.  This is how you change from 'Timer mode' to 'Manual mode' (without losing the memory of the program setting).  Repeat to return to the other mode.   Perhaps someone changed the mode accidentally.

  • Make sure the light bulbs are good.  (You need a least one working bulb (over 40 watts) for the timer (and indicator light) to work.

  • Try reprogramming the timer.  If this doesn't do it, call us to replace it.

Programming:  (click here to go to MS Word document)
or the web page document

1. Slide the control lever to the left to Off-Clear for at least 5 seconds.  The red indicator light will go off and any program settings will be lost.

2. Move the lever to the right to On.  Red indicator light will start flashing.

3. Rotate the clock dial (at least 1 click) to the 1/2 hour closet to the present time.  Be aware of AM and PM.  Be sure not to accidentally press the button while rotating it.

4. Press the button in once to enter (set) the current time.  The Red indicator will go Off.

5. Rotate the clock dial until the desired ON time.  (Red light blinks once for each click.)

6. Press push button to enter the ON time.  The controlled light will turn on.

7. Rotate dial to the desired OFF time.

8. Press dial to enter the OFF time.  The controlled light will now be off.

9. Repeat steps 5-8 if you wish to set another automatic time, for example an early morning setting.

10. Continue to rotate the dial for at least 24 hours (2 full turns) from the first ON time to complete the programming.  The Red indicator light will come on and stay on.

Note that the dial will not turn automatically to indicate the current time of day.  The clock indications are only for programming purposes.

You can go to the manufacturer's web site has instructions but they may be hard to decipher.
 

Digital type:

Intermatic S7 (with removable clear window to access programming buttons)

• Press to manually turn lights on or off without upsetting the settings.

• Slightly harder to set. (Small LCD for information)

• Handles almost 2000 watts of power

• Not damaged by short circuits or overloads

• 'AA' battery prevents loss of settings during power failures.

• Or click here to go to the manufacturer's web site instructions (Adobe Acrobat file).  (Believe me, my instructions are easier to read and use.)

Intermatic ST01  (with panel door covering the programming buttons and battery compartment.)

This timer automatically adjusts for daylight savings time and changing sunset/sunrise times so you don't have to reprogram during the year.

        Programming:     Click here to review programming instructions. 

Intermatic EJ500 (with panel door which opens to access programming buttons)

This timer automatically adjusts for daylight savings time and changing sunset/sunrise times so you don't have to reprogram during the year.

        Programming:     Click here to view the manufacturer's instructions (pdf file on our web site)

Aube LCD digital timer (with panel door which opens to access programming buttons)

This timer automatically adjusts for daylight savings time and changing sunset/sunrise times so you don't have to reprogram during the year. Press button to manually to turn on and off. If you press and hold the button, it will change modes from "Auto" to "Manual", to "Manual-Random" to "Program".

        Programming:     Click here to view the manufacturer's list of instructions by model (pdf file).

T1032          Digital timer without calendar option.  (40-500 watt capacity)

T1033          Digital timer without calendar feature (requires neutral wire) for heavier loads (up to 2400 watts) or fluorescent lights (can be less than 40 watts).

T1034-3W   Digital timer with calendar feature to keep track of sunset. (40 watt minimum, 500 watt maximum)

T1035         Digital timer (requires neutral wire) with calendar feature.

Mechanical timers
Due to their large size and unsightly appearance, they are usually located in the basement or garage.
Manual by-pass is harder to do, or separate switch must be added.
Able to handle large loads like pumps, 240 volt situations and more.
Able to interact with photo-cells and other options.
Easily set and changed but has no power failure memory backup.



X-10 / Leviton Remote Control Timer
These X-10 transmitter units send signals on the household wires to wherever there is a X-10 remote receiver switch.
Click here for programming instructions.

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